Step by step
- 01
Lay it flat
Smooth the shirt on a flat surface with no stretching.
- 02
Measure pit to pit
Measure straight across the chest, one inch below the armpit seams. Double it for the chest circumference.
- 03
Measure length
Measure from the highest point of the shoulder next to the collar down to the bottom hem.
- 04
Compare to a shirt you love
Take the same two measurements from a shirt that fits you well. That comparison beats any size chart.
Why vintage runs small
Many older blanks were cut shorter and narrower, and cotton shrinks with decades of washing. A tag XL can measure like a modern medium or large.
Blank weight matters
Thin 50/50 blanks drape and stretch; heavyweight cotton blanks hold a boxier shape at the same measurements.
Why vintage sizes run small
Decades of washing shrink cotton, and older patterns were cut differently from today's oversized fits. Tag sizes are unreliable, so collectors use measurements.
How to measure
Lay the shirt flat. Pit to pit is straight across the chest just below the armpits. Length runs from the top of the shoulder near the collar to the bottom hem. Compare with a shirt you already like.
Twist and boxiness
Older shirts often twist at the side seams after many washes, and heavy 90s blanks are boxy. Factor that into fit.
FAQ
- What is pit-to-pit?
- The straight-line width across the chest between the armpit seams, measured flat.
- Should I trust the size tag?
- Use it as a hint only. Always ask for pit-to-pit and length.
- What is a good pit to pit for a modern large?
- Measure a large you already own and compare — fits vary too much for one number.